By Dipak Kurmi
Meghalaya’s Khasi Hills stand as a testament to the sublime interplay of nature and culture. This region, with its vertiginous peaks, cascading waterfalls, and vibrant traditions, is a sanctuary for adventurers, cultural enthusiasts, and those seeking solace in the embrace of the natural world. The Khasi Hills, encompassing the East and West Khasi Hills along with the Ri-Bhoi district, offer a kaleidoscope of experiences—from the rain-soaked plateaus of Sohra to the cosmopolitan charm of Shillong, from ancient root bridges to sacred groves steeped in lore. Here, the monsoons paint the landscape with a ferocity matched only by the warmth of Khasi hospitality, creating a destination that is as dynamic as it is timeless.
Sohra: The Monsoon’s Muse
Sohra, often referred to as Cherrapunjee, is the crown jewel of the East Khasi Hills, a place where the elements converge to craft a landscape of ethereal beauty. Renowned as one of the wettest places on Earth, alongside its neighbor Mawsynram, Sohra transforms during the monsoon into a realm of mist-shrouded hills and thundering waterfalls. The Nohkalikai Falls, plunging over 1,000 feet, is a spectacle of raw power, its deep pool and forested backdrop framed by dramatic cliffs. The falls carry a tragic Khasi legend of Likai, a woman driven to despair by a horrific betrayal, her story etched into the very rocks where she leapt to her fate. Visitors can trek to the head of the falls, where a natural rock formation resembling a medieval doorway offers breathtaking views of the valley below. For those willing to venture further, guided treks through dense forests lead to the base, revealing a shift from hardy grasslands to lush, tropical havens.
Nearby, the Dainthlen Falls roar with a force that echoes the Khasi tale of a vanquished serpent, its rocky riverbed a testament to ancient battles. The Seven Sisters Falls, or Noh Sngithiang, dazzle with their segmented cascade, each of the seven streams glistening like a jewel against the limestone cliffs. The drier months reveal blue skies perfect for scenic hikes, while the monsoons amplify the region’s allure, drawing photographers to capture the interplay of light and water. The Wei Saw Dong Falls, tucked in a verdant forest, and the Arwah Cave, with its fossil-laden limestone walls, add layers of adventure. Arwah’s labyrinthine passages, illuminated to highlight crustacean shells and fish bones, offer a glimpse into Meghalaya’s prehistoric past. Mawsmai Cave, more accessible, invites casual explorers to navigate its narrow passageways, surrounded by chirping birds and forested trails.
Sohra’s cultural significance is as profound as its natural splendor. Once the gateway to the colonial era and a cultural hub for the Khasi people, it remains a place where history whispers through its rivers and hilltops. Visitors can choose from luxurious stays like Jiva or Polo Orchid resorts or opt for homestays in nearby Nongriat or Khat-ar-shnong, immersing themselves in local life. The village of Kongthong in Khat-ar-shnong is particularly unique, known as the Whistling Village, where residents are assigned musical tunes as personal identifiers—a tradition called jingrwai iawbei. This valley, framed by monsoon mountains, also boasts the Jingkieng Myor, the highest living root bridge, a marvel of Khasi bioengineering spanning the Wah Sohra river.
Shillong: The Urban Heart with a Rustic Soul
At the heart of the East Khasi Hills lies Shillong, Meghalaya’s vibrant capital, founded by the British in the 19th century. Shillong is a city of contrasts, blending small-town charm with a cosmopolitan edge. Its love for music is legendary, having nurtured iconic musicians who resonate far beyond its borders. The city’s downtown buzzes with energy, while quieter neighborhoods are lined with whistling pines. Shillong’s café culture is burgeoning, offering cozy spots to linger with a book, while Ward’s Lake, with its wooden bridge and blooming cherry blossoms in autumn, invites leisurely strolls. The sprawling Golf Links, dubbed the Glen Eagles of the East, is a favorite for residents and visitors alike, its meadows dotted with monoliths and fringed by eateries serving local delicacies.
Phan Nonglait Park, formerly Lady Hydari Park, is a verdant oasis with manicured lawns, a pelican-filled lake, and a mini zoo showcasing Meghalaya’s biodiversity. The Don Bosco Museum, a seven-story treasure trove, offers a deep dive into the Northeast’s cultural tapestry, with galleries on tribal life, traditional technologies, and regional cuisine. For those tracing Shillong’s colonial past, the Shillong Heritage Walk unveils stories of its British origins, while Police Bazaar teems with hotels and guesthouses catering to every traveler.
Beyond the urban core, Shillong Peak at 1,960 meters offers panoramic views of the city, its observatory deck a vantage point for spotting distant waterfalls and vegetable patches nestled in pine meadows. Nearby, Smit village hosts the Nongkrem Dance, a vibrant Khasi festival, and lies adjacent to Laitlum, Meghalaya’s own grand canyon, where trekkers can descend into a chasm of streams and settlements.
Mawlynnong: God’s Own Garden
In the southern reaches of the East Khasi Hills, Mawlynnong village earns its title as Asia’s cleanest village and God’s Own Garden. Its fruit orchards, swaying palms, and rushing streams create a postcard-perfect setting. The Nohwet Living Root Bridge, crafted over generations from the roots of Ficus elastica, is a testament to Khasi ingenuity, growing stronger with time. These bridges, vital for connecting villages across steep valleys, are both functional and harmonious with nature. Visitors can dip into the cool river waters or climb bamboo treehouses near the century-old Church of the Epiphany, gazing out at the plains of Bangladesh.
Nongriat: The Double-Decker Wonder
Further afield, Nongriat’s double-decker root bridge is a marvel of botanical architecture, reached via a grueling descent of 3,000 steps from Tyrna village. The trek, punctuated by stunning vistas, rewards visitors with serene pools and the chance to extend the journey to Rainbow Falls, a turquoise-hued spectacle amid betel nut plantations and jungle trails. Staying overnight in Nongriat’s guesthouses allows travelers to savor the tranquil scenery at a leisurely pace.
Mawsynram: Where Rain Reigns Supreme
Mawsynram, rivaling Sohra for the title of the world’s wettest place, is a plateau where waterfalls spill from mountainsides, sometimes cascading onto highways. Krem Puri, the world’s longest sandstone cave, beckons seasoned cavers, while Krem Dam’s underground waterways and beaches captivate adventurers. Mawlyngbna, with its Umkhakoi lake, offers kayaking and fossil sites that hint at a prehistoric underwater world. The Split Rock, cleaved by the 1897 Assam earthquake, adds a curious geological note. Phlangwanbroi’s jungles shelter Hoolock Gibbons, making it a haven for wildlife enthusiasts.
West Khasi Hills: Untamed Beauty
The West Khasi Hills offer a rugged counterpoint to the East’s polished attractions. Kyllang Rock, a colossal granite dome, rises from pine forests, its summit offering panoramic views of villages and rhododendron-dotted slopes. Khasi legend casts it as the remnant of a divine battle between gods Kyllang and Symper, their hurled boulders shaping the landscape. An early morning hike to catch the sunrise, followed by a picnic, is a must, though visitors are urged to leave no trace.
Nongkhnum River Island, one of Asia’s largest, is a serene enclave where the Kynshi River splits into the Phanliang and Namliang. Its pristine beaches, framed by Weinia, Thum, and Langshiang Falls, invite boating and stargazing. Annual festivals showcase Khasi music and cuisine, while rare plants and insects add to the island’s ecological allure. Mawphanlur, with its high-altitude meadows and lakes, is a haven for kayaking, climbing, and photography, its starlit skies a draw for overnight campers. The trek to Mawthadraishan offers views of the Eastern Himalayas on clear days, a reward for those who venture into this quiet corner.
Ri-Bhoi: Lakes and Legends
In Ri-Bhoi, Umiam Lake captivates with its hill-fringed waters, formed by a 1960s dam. A hub for water sports like paddle boating and speed boating, it’s complemented by the Orchid Lake Resort’s scenic restaurant and pool. Marngar Lake, near Nongpoh, offers a tranquil retreat with thatched huts and a wooden bridge, ideal for picnickers. Lum Sohpetbneng, a sacred hill tied to Khasi cosmology, is a pilgrimage site where the “navel of heaven” once connected earth and sky. Its gentle climb rewards with lake views and pine-scented serenity.
Pynursla and Mawphlang: Hidden Gems
Pynursla, often overshadowed by Dawki and Mawlynnong, surprises with its root bridges in Mawkyrnot and the secluded Wah Rymben Falls. Langkawet’s pine-dotted plateaus and fruit orchards add to the region’s charm, with winter oranges a local delicacy. The Mawphlang Sacred Groves, a hallowed forest where nothing may be removed, transport visitors to a primeval world of rare flora and ancient monoliths marking Khasi coronation sites. The nearby Khasi Heritage Village showcases traditional architecture, reinforcing the region’s conservation ethos.
The Khasi Hills are a symphony of extremes—raging rivers, tranquil lakes, sacred groves, and vibrant festivals. From the thunderous waterfalls of Sohra to the musical heritage of Shillong, from the living root bridges of Mawlynnong and Nongriat to the untouched wilderness of Nongkhnum and Mawphanlur, this region invites exploration with every step. The Khasi people’s deep connection to their land, woven into legends and traditions, adds a soulful dimension to the journey. Whether you seek adventure, culture, or quiet reflection, the Khasi Hills deliver an unforgettable odyssey through Meghalaya’s heart.
(the writer can be reached at dipakkurmiglpltd@gmail.com)
