Meghalaya’s fruit wine renaissance: A 77-year journey from tradition to modernity

Guwahati, Aug 9: A quiet but determined revolution is brewing—one that began 77 years ago and is now poised to place the state on the global map of fruit wines.

The roots of this industry trace back to 1947, when Captain Harold Douglas Hunt established the first winery in Mawphlang, crafting the now-legendary Mawphlang Cherry wine from the native Sohiong fruit. Though the original winery closed in the 1980s, the tradition of fruit wine production has persisted, evolving from a cherished hobby to a burgeoning commercial enterprise.

“Meghalaya, with its rich biodiversity and unique climatic conditions, harbours an abundance of fruit varieties suitable for wine production, such as Sohiong, Soh-Poh-Khasi, and may other native varieties. Both Khasi and Garo Hills offer an array of native fruit varieties yet to be explored. Commercial fruits such as Pineapple and Plum are also excellent contenders for wine making” says Priyanka Save, Meghalaya Fruit Wine Ambassador.

Priyanka Save is no stranger to the world of fruit wines and has pioneered the farm-to-table concept for fruits across Maharashtra and enabled farmers to get well-deserved earnings from the fruit they produced after much hard work but would have otherwise gone to waste. Recently, Priyanka has set her foot in the hilly state of Himachal Pradesh with Himachal Nectars Pvt. Ltd. in a quest to manufacture quality beverages from the state.

“She is a fruit winemaker, wine educator, she trains our winemakers and advocates the cause of fruit wines nationally and globally. She is also the Vice President of the All India Wine Producers Association” says Executive Advisor Meghalaya Farmers’ (Empowerment) Commission Act B. K. Sohliya.

Priyanka has been mentoring and handholding fruit wine entrepreneurs while visiting wineries in Garo Hills. She is training wine makers on the finer skills of wine making as they will be showcasing their products at Vinexpo Mumbai 2024 next month. Vinexpo India has established its reputation as a strategic event for expanding the international wine and spirits industry.

She says the production of fruit wines in Meghalaya presents a multifaceted opportunity that spans economic, entrepreneurial, and nutritional domains. “To explore the potential of fruit wines to bolster livelihoods, stimulate enterprise development, and enhance utilization of local produce in this northeastern Indian state, the Meghalaya Farmers Empowerment Commission (MFEC) has a crucial role to play” she says.

“Fruit wines have been a part of local household as they have been practising home wine making. However, wine making as a commercial enterprise needs appropriate licensing as well as compliance criterion abiding by FSSAI. The challenges faced by the fruit wine industry in Meghalaya, such as regulatory hurdles, market access, and the need for consistent quality standards, have been analysed closely by the Commission” she says.

Priyanka says by conducting training program and providing an incubation centre with modern equipment for wine making in IHM Shillong, it won’t be long that Meghalaya shall emerge as a fruit wine destination of the world.

Fruit wines of Meghalaya are slowly catching the market interest and it is being showcased at national expos and being served at hotels like Guwahati Vivanta.

The MFEC has organised exposure visits for winemakers and officials to the Indian wine industry in Nashik and international wine exhibitions like VinExpo India in Mumbai and Delhi. The Commission firmly believes that embracing modern technology and implementing innovative practices are crucial for improving the quality of local fruit wines. To further support local winemakers through training, mentorship and incubation, the MFEC established the First Model Fruit Winery at the Institute of Hotel Management Catering Technology & Applied Nutrition (IHMCTAN) campus in Shillong.

The Wine Appreciation & Wine Making Certification Courses have been organised by MFEC with the aim of encouraging local winemakers to transition from the traditional art of winemaking to modern winemaking techniques to ensure that the quality of wine produced in the state matches nationally and internationally recognized wine standards. “The goal is to make Meghalaya the Fruit Wine and Mead Capital of the country just like Nashik has become the Grape Wine Capital” an official says.